The last leg of the trip was to fly to Delhi and hire a driver to take us four-five hours to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. We were going to miss the celebrations in Kathmandu for Buddha's Birthday, but we had experienced that in Bangkok a few years back. By continuing on to Agra, we were to attend a full moon viewing of the Taj late that evening.
I randomly had chosen a travel company out of Delhi that had cars with drivers for hire. I got to pick the car, an Ambassador, that based on the internet photo, seemed much more regal than it actually was. Our driver met us at the airport ready to take us on yet another adventure simply called "driving the roads of India"! (We did not get in one accident in three days, which really says a lot.)
Oh, India. What can I say? Men peeing on the side of the road completely exposed. Children playing in heaps of garbage. Toxic rivers. Cattle roaming freely anywhere they please. Women in beautiful and colorful saris sharply contrasting the dusty streets. Cars and animals and people and cargo trucks and strange inventions of motorized vehicles in near collisions and constant horns blaring. Poverty. Pollution. Heat (112 degrees the highest when we were there). And then, an oasis.
We arrived at our hotel in Agra late in the afternoon, and after considerable security measures, were welcomed with refreshing watermelon juice and bindi (a red mark as a sign of luck and health) on our foreheads. We were then taken to our room and immediately our eyes were drawn to the balcony door, where beyond we could see the Taj Mahal! And floating in the hot air were dozens of kites flying and the sounds of the call to prayer.
Then, that evening, we saw the Taj by moonlight, with a handful of other tourists and uzi-toting soldiers. The next day, the temperature climbed to record levels in India, and our driver waited for us outside the Red Fort with the air conditioner on. Afterwards, we decided to go back to the hotel, hang out at the pool with some pina coladas and wait to see the Taj Mahal again for the sunset viewing. Which we thought would be at a cooler time in the evening. If you can call 102 degrees cooler.
The whole time we were in India, we thought of my grandparents, who had traveled there in 1972. We wondered about how different it was, if at all, and when photographing at the fort and Taj, we would suddenly think "hey, we've seen this before!" - through their eyes, of course.
Our last day, we requested a very late check-out so we could linger by the pool before our four-five drive back to Delhi and then fifteen hour plane ride.
It was time to go home.
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Thursday, May 27, 2010
: moving parts :
Would we get out of Lukla? It was really foggy outside, and the runway is 1,729 feet long with a grade of 12%, and when taking off, planes literally fall off the side of the mountain. The week before we descended, it took trekkers four-five days to leave because of weather. As much as we had resigned to leave the mountains, we are firm believers of safety first.
Which makes you wonder, when it still looks crappy outside, who makes the decision that it's okay to fly the planes. The fog had lifted, but there were still substantial clouds hanging overhead with threatening overtones. One just has to have trust.
Finally, but with reserve, we took off. But what was worse than the weather in Lukla was the weather approaching Kathmandu. Just a word of advice. If you are a chicken shit like me, don't sit towards the front of the plane and try to guess why the pilot is looking worried about flying with no visibility.
But enough about that. We were so happy to arrive back at the Yak & Yeti with a toilet, a shower, food and soft bed. We didn't do much all day aside from indulging in these four things.
The next couple of days, we spent touring Kathmandu and it's surrounding sites. There are three famous public squares built by three prince brothers, all very similar with subtle differences in public purpose and aesthetic style in central Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan. We also saw:
Day One
-Swayambhanath, the monkey temple and the giant stupa of Boudhanath
Day Two
-the 4th century Changu Narayan Temple and the tallest temple in Kathmandu called Nyatapola
In addition, we walked through alleys and tons of neighborhoods taking in the city life of Kathmandu. Everyone and everything has a purpose, and each moving part is dependent on another. Of course, it is the same in our Western life, but here in Kathmandu, it seems more urgent. Or maybe because it is so different from life back home, it just seems that way.
We finished our evening with bacon and yak cheese pizza and Carlsberg beer at a place called Roadhouse in the Thamel district and with a full belly said our sad goodbyes to Nepal.
Which makes you wonder, when it still looks crappy outside, who makes the decision that it's okay to fly the planes. The fog had lifted, but there were still substantial clouds hanging overhead with threatening overtones. One just has to have trust.
Finally, but with reserve, we took off. But what was worse than the weather in Lukla was the weather approaching Kathmandu. Just a word of advice. If you are a chicken shit like me, don't sit towards the front of the plane and try to guess why the pilot is looking worried about flying with no visibility.
But enough about that. We were so happy to arrive back at the Yak & Yeti with a toilet, a shower, food and soft bed. We didn't do much all day aside from indulging in these four things.
The next couple of days, we spent touring Kathmandu and it's surrounding sites. There are three famous public squares built by three prince brothers, all very similar with subtle differences in public purpose and aesthetic style in central Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan. We also saw:
Day One
-Swayambhanath, the monkey temple and the giant stupa of Boudhanath
Day Two
-the 4th century Changu Narayan Temple and the tallest temple in Kathmandu called Nyatapola
In addition, we walked through alleys and tons of neighborhoods taking in the city life of Kathmandu. Everyone and everything has a purpose, and each moving part is dependent on another. Of course, it is the same in our Western life, but here in Kathmandu, it seems more urgent. Or maybe because it is so different from life back home, it just seems that way.
We finished our evening with bacon and yak cheese pizza and Carlsberg beer at a place called Roadhouse in the Thamel district and with a full belly said our sad goodbyes to Nepal.
Monday, May 24, 2010
: for your viewing pleasure :
Finally - photographs here! And more to come...above, Bette and Wally, Everest to the left, Ama Dablam to the right.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
: invitations :
It was just us and the monks at the teahouse for the night, and in the morning, they invited us to a private puja and allowed us to photograph the ceremony. We also got to drink some Tibetan tea, which is an interesting concoction of tea, milk, yak butter and SALT! It wasn’t exactly the boost one would want from a morning beverage, but we remained grateful and courteous and drank it down.
After we left, and as we walked our final day to Lukla, Mingma invited us over to his parent’s home, which was not too far off the beaten path we were on. It was a very touching thing, to be invited to his childhood home to meet his parents, and after making sure it wouldn’t be an imposition, we accepted, and made our way down into the valley.
Only his mother was home, and she went to the garden, picked fresh mint and made us mint tea. She didn’t speak a word of English, but her smile translated her genuine happiness in meeting us. We had a great visit!
Then we continued onward, to Lukla, where day two of a three day Spring festival was happening at the Monastery. After dropping our bags, we washed our faces and went to check it out – as did the whole town, it seemed. The monks played their big horns and drums and chanted over a loud speaker. Mingma's brother is one of the monks at this Monastery and we got to see him perform in costume, both frightening and exciting the children in the audience.
We then made our way back to our teahouse and ate pizza with yak cheese for dinner, played canasta and listened to Bollywood t.v. Once we returned to our room for the night, we could still hear the festival music into the late hours, despite the fact that the Monastery was pretty far away.
And it’s back to Kathmandu in the early morning.
After we left, and as we walked our final day to Lukla, Mingma invited us over to his parent’s home, which was not too far off the beaten path we were on. It was a very touching thing, to be invited to his childhood home to meet his parents, and after making sure it wouldn’t be an imposition, we accepted, and made our way down into the valley.
Only his mother was home, and she went to the garden, picked fresh mint and made us mint tea. She didn’t speak a word of English, but her smile translated her genuine happiness in meeting us. We had a great visit!
Then we continued onward, to Lukla, where day two of a three day Spring festival was happening at the Monastery. After dropping our bags, we washed our faces and went to check it out – as did the whole town, it seemed. The monks played their big horns and drums and chanted over a loud speaker. Mingma's brother is one of the monks at this Monastery and we got to see him perform in costume, both frightening and exciting the children in the audience.
We then made our way back to our teahouse and ate pizza with yak cheese for dinner, played canasta and listened to Bollywood t.v. Once we returned to our room for the night, we could still hear the festival music into the late hours, despite the fact that the Monastery was pretty far away.
And it’s back to Kathmandu in the early morning.
Friday, May 21, 2010
: aerial :
We were up early with excitement, had some milk coffee and then walked up to the heli-pad, past prayer wheels, and waited for our helicopter. Many were flying back and forth through the valley this morning. We waited for a while, and soon some women, who had somehow heard through the grapevine that there was a helicopter stopping in Namche that was going onto EBC, came by with about three dozen eggs and a case of San Miguel beer to be taken up. Then someone else showed up with a giant bag of potatoes. The staples of life, as Wally pointed out. Finally, the helicopter arrived, and the owner told us that we may not be able to land in Base Camp because of the wind, but he would try. The eggs and beer and potatoes did not board with us.
And of course, all I could think of was, what? You might not be able to land because it is too dangerous because of the wind? What have I gotten us into?
But we boarded and off we went on our first helicopter ride, with our trusty guide and pilot, flying through the Himalayas looking down upon all the villages we had trekked through. And there directly in front of us, Everest, growing bigger and closer. We snapped a ton of photos from the air of Cho Oyu, Gokyo, Ama Dablam, Kala Patthar, and Everest itself. We flew over Base Camp, so high that the campsites looked like dipping dots on ice cream. And the Khumba Icefall, whose scale could not be comprehended from the air, only that it is enormous.
It was too windy to land at Base Camp, but the pilot landed on top of Kala Patthar and opened our door to let us run out and snap some breathtaking photos quickly before we passed out from the lack of oxygen at 18,000 feet. After two minutes we dizzily ran back to the helicopter and took off to return to Namche.
This may have been one of the most awesome things we have ever done, ever!
We arrived back in Namche and started our very, very long five hour trek to Phakding. Whether it was the intoxicating events of the morning, the fact that we had just spent ten days going up and down trails, or the ample oxygen available as we descended, we practically ran up and down the trail to Phakding. We started the morning at 18,000 feet and ended at 9,000 feet. What a day!
We are staying the night in the same teahouse we stayed at our first night on the trail. The only difference this time is that there are a dozen or so Buddhist monks working on a new prayer book and staying at the teahouse as well. Wally says it’s just like the holidays, with the pack animals and their Santa Claus bells and the monks’ music that sounds strangely similar to a big band announcing “Happy New Year!”.
Tomorrow, Lukla.
Songs of the day:
First day of my life – Bright Eyes
Perfect Day – Lou Reed
And of course, all I could think of was, what? You might not be able to land because it is too dangerous because of the wind? What have I gotten us into?
But we boarded and off we went on our first helicopter ride, with our trusty guide and pilot, flying through the Himalayas looking down upon all the villages we had trekked through. And there directly in front of us, Everest, growing bigger and closer. We snapped a ton of photos from the air of Cho Oyu, Gokyo, Ama Dablam, Kala Patthar, and Everest itself. We flew over Base Camp, so high that the campsites looked like dipping dots on ice cream. And the Khumba Icefall, whose scale could not be comprehended from the air, only that it is enormous.
It was too windy to land at Base Camp, but the pilot landed on top of Kala Patthar and opened our door to let us run out and snap some breathtaking photos quickly before we passed out from the lack of oxygen at 18,000 feet. After two minutes we dizzily ran back to the helicopter and took off to return to Namche.
This may have been one of the most awesome things we have ever done, ever!
We arrived back in Namche and started our very, very long five hour trek to Phakding. Whether it was the intoxicating events of the morning, the fact that we had just spent ten days going up and down trails, or the ample oxygen available as we descended, we practically ran up and down the trail to Phakding. We started the morning at 18,000 feet and ended at 9,000 feet. What a day!
We are staying the night in the same teahouse we stayed at our first night on the trail. The only difference this time is that there are a dozen or so Buddhist monks working on a new prayer book and staying at the teahouse as well. Wally says it’s just like the holidays, with the pack animals and their Santa Claus bells and the monks’ music that sounds strangely similar to a big band announcing “Happy New Year!”.
Tomorrow, Lukla.
Songs of the day:
First day of my life – Bright Eyes
Perfect Day – Lou Reed
Thursday, May 20, 2010
: extreme measures :
It rained – no, thunderstormed really – most of the night, so we awoke expecting to don our gaiters for the trek to Namche. But, the ground soaked in the rain and the trail was pretty dry. And it looked to be a beautiful day ahead of us.
Mingma had taken us on an alternative route, another highly scenic route through the town of Khumjung (although, by now you may have realized that there is never a bad view in the Himalayas!). We picked up rocks along the way and stopped for lunch at a newer teahouse, where we met a little girl named Salina, who came from Switzerland with her family, and before heading to Africa, her father was on Everest attempting a summit. She was probably six or so, and was very concerned for her father’s well-being. She said he must be very cold there. We told her not to worry, that the time for climbing was almost finished and her father should be home soon.
We passed one of the highest airports at 12,700 feet, and then walked from above Namche through an area that looked like a golf course, but was just naturally manicured.
The disappointment of not making it to Everest Base Camp had been weighing on our minds for two days. It seemed unfair that we could not go back – Wally was feeling 100% again, but we just didn’t have the time to go back up again, especially with no guarantee that either one of us wouldn’t get sick once again.
We had done all the work to get there – over 15,000 feet up, and we were only 2,500 feet from Base Camp, two days and no more than four hours of trekking. What had laid before us were the easiest days of the trek, the only real difficulty being the altitude. So, I suggested to Wally, how about the helicopter? What if it could take us to Base Camp for a half hour or so, and back to Namche? (And yes, I actually suggested a helicopter – aren’t I the adventurous one?)
We presented this crazy idea to Mingma, who made some phone calls (on his cell, at 13,000 feet by the way) and we were able to procure a ride on a rescue helicopter that had someone to pick up at the high altitude hospital in Periche. It would fetch us first thing in the morning from Namche. Not without a price, mind you, but with some negotiations, we felt this would be worth it. We are hoping we can sleep tonight!
Oh, and as a side note, today Wally and I had a hot shower AND I finally washed my hair after nine days! Yikes! But really, we didn't smell all that bad. Seriously.
Mingma had taken us on an alternative route, another highly scenic route through the town of Khumjung (although, by now you may have realized that there is never a bad view in the Himalayas!). We picked up rocks along the way and stopped for lunch at a newer teahouse, where we met a little girl named Salina, who came from Switzerland with her family, and before heading to Africa, her father was on Everest attempting a summit. She was probably six or so, and was very concerned for her father’s well-being. She said he must be very cold there. We told her not to worry, that the time for climbing was almost finished and her father should be home soon.
We passed one of the highest airports at 12,700 feet, and then walked from above Namche through an area that looked like a golf course, but was just naturally manicured.
The disappointment of not making it to Everest Base Camp had been weighing on our minds for two days. It seemed unfair that we could not go back – Wally was feeling 100% again, but we just didn’t have the time to go back up again, especially with no guarantee that either one of us wouldn’t get sick once again.
We had done all the work to get there – over 15,000 feet up, and we were only 2,500 feet from Base Camp, two days and no more than four hours of trekking. What had laid before us were the easiest days of the trek, the only real difficulty being the altitude. So, I suggested to Wally, how about the helicopter? What if it could take us to Base Camp for a half hour or so, and back to Namche? (And yes, I actually suggested a helicopter – aren’t I the adventurous one?)
We presented this crazy idea to Mingma, who made some phone calls (on his cell, at 13,000 feet by the way) and we were able to procure a ride on a rescue helicopter that had someone to pick up at the high altitude hospital in Periche. It would fetch us first thing in the morning from Namche. Not without a price, mind you, but with some negotiations, we felt this would be worth it. We are hoping we can sleep tonight!
Oh, and as a side note, today Wally and I had a hot shower AND I finally washed my hair after nine days! Yikes! But really, we didn't smell all that bad. Seriously.
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
: downward, except for our spirits :
At 2:30 am, the dreaded headache returned, but not as severe. While one might think that this is a good sign, it in fact is not. The goal is to have the adverse symptoms gone completely, and then, you can ascend again. So, we had to make the decision to keep going down.
Mingma took us on a different route, past a 600 year old monastery and up along an insanely narrow ridge. I never knew I had a propensity for vertigo until today! We saw lots of yak, mountain goats and golden eagles. Our final stop for the night was a little town called Psortse, at about 13,000 feet. It is a small village and we stayed at the Namaste Lodge, owned by Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa and his family. Lhakpa had attempted a summit of Everest in 1983, and made summit in 1985. It was exciting to meet an actual sherpa who had been to the top!
In addition to the notoriety of their owner, they have the best Sherpa Stew and Rara Noodles, as the vegetables are all fresh from their garden – potatoes, carrots, parsley, cilantro. And fried potatoes too. Oh my gosh, my mouth is watering again!
Funny thing the menus and what they offer. On a menu at a teahouse, there are several things listed. For instance, at the Namaste Lodge, a room will cost you 200 rupees, or $3.00. A bowl of hot water for washing – 150 rupees. A beer? That will set you back 250 rupees. Yep, a beer will cost you more than a bed.
For our after dinner entertainment and completely random,, a couple of guys from an organization called Extreme Ice Survey came by to show everyone the work they had been doing with time lapse photography of the recession of the Khumba and Gorak Shep glaciers. We all sat around the warm stove and watched a slide presentation on their laptop. Totally unplanned and enjoyable!
And, Wally is feeling much better – not 100%, but getting close.
Quote of the day:
Bette: There’s only so many times you can spray yourself down with Lysol.
Mingma took us on a different route, past a 600 year old monastery and up along an insanely narrow ridge. I never knew I had a propensity for vertigo until today! We saw lots of yak, mountain goats and golden eagles. Our final stop for the night was a little town called Psortse, at about 13,000 feet. It is a small village and we stayed at the Namaste Lodge, owned by Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa and his family. Lhakpa had attempted a summit of Everest in 1983, and made summit in 1985. It was exciting to meet an actual sherpa who had been to the top!
In addition to the notoriety of their owner, they have the best Sherpa Stew and Rara Noodles, as the vegetables are all fresh from their garden – potatoes, carrots, parsley, cilantro. And fried potatoes too. Oh my gosh, my mouth is watering again!
Funny thing the menus and what they offer. On a menu at a teahouse, there are several things listed. For instance, at the Namaste Lodge, a room will cost you 200 rupees, or $3.00. A bowl of hot water for washing – 150 rupees. A beer? That will set you back 250 rupees. Yep, a beer will cost you more than a bed.
For our after dinner entertainment and completely random,, a couple of guys from an organization called Extreme Ice Survey came by to show everyone the work they had been doing with time lapse photography of the recession of the Khumba and Gorak Shep glaciers. We all sat around the warm stove and watched a slide presentation on their laptop. Totally unplanned and enjoyable!
And, Wally is feeling much better – not 100%, but getting close.
Quote of the day:
Bette: There’s only so many times you can spray yourself down with Lysol.
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