Yesterday was day six of our trek, and day two of an acclimatization day in Dingboche. We took a small hike up to 15,252 feet which provided up close and personal views of Ama Dablam.
The conditions in this village are harsh. Everyone we encountered seemed sick with some sort of cold, and the general vibe is somewhat discouraging. Some climber (?) came in with a guide or porter, sat down and ate an enormous meal with a huge scowl on his face. We could only imagine that he must have missed his Everest summit bid. It didn’t seem appropriate to ask.
In the evening hours, we sat in the dining room and the owners lit a fire in a stove with yak dung and kerosene and everyone sits around reading or playing cards, mostly just staying warm.
Then, we went to bed. And then, Wally awoke around midnight with an excruciating headache – like something he had never experienced before. This was the beginnings of HACE, or high altitude cerebral edema. We had no choice but to descend first thing in the morning.
(To put how long it can take to acclimatize into perspective, climbers of Everest spend two months acclimatizing to the altitude. A person may or may not be affected, and can have symptoms despite never having problems in the past. Even if you spend more time in altitude, this does not reduce your risk of AMS. It's really the luck of the draw.)
It took us 2 ½ hours to get to Pangboche (1600 feet lower), and we decided to spend the night and see if the symptoms subsided. At this point, and after a couple of hours, Wally was feeling much better and we spent the day sitting around, drinking milk coffee, eating Tibetan Bread and talking to Mingma and Cyala. Wally showed them his book, Dark Summit, which is about the 2006 climbing season on Everest, while I decided that this would be the day I showed them the baby yeti picture. They had a good laugh about it, but sadly, they thought it was a dog! What does a sherpa know about the yeti anyway?
Mingma told us that when he was little, his parents warned that if he came across a yeti, he was to immediately build a fire, and the yeti would go away. Otherwise, the yeti would carry him away to a yeti cave. While there is something mildly romantic about being captured by a yeti, I have made sure that Wally has a book of matches and can quickly build a fire.
Dinner was more lively than usual. Wally and I read while the room slowly filled with the sound of various dialects and foreign words. But looking around, that is the only thing that separates us, this language barrier. Aside from that, we are all sunburned and clad in dusty trekking clothes.
Tomorrow morning, we hope for the best.
Song of the day: Something is not right with me – Cold War Kids
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Sunday, May 16, 2010
: it’s getting colder :
Today was a day of extremes – we went from waking up to a beautiful rodendren garden to walking through a freezing cold wind above the tree line. We had a clear view of Everest and Ama Dablam the whole time, and saw yaks carrying supplies to Ama Dablam’s base camp.
A crazy little dog followed us for about an hour all the way to our final stop of the day, Dingboche. We were like, when is this little dog going to go home? But he just kept going and took us right to our teahouse. I wanted to let him stay with us but Wally wasn’t too keen on that, being that the little dog might have lice and all.
Dingboche is at 14,553 feet. Here we will spend tonight and tomorrow night as well. Wally is going to attempt to trade electrical tape for a battery recharge for our cameras and computer. Really, he could just use rupees, but how fun is that?
Quote of the day:
Wally: What more do you need than a room made of plywood?
Song of the day:
Everyone gets a star - Albert Hammond, Jr.
: say “yak cheese!” :
A long time ago, someone gave me a great camping tip. They said to keep your heated water bottle and clothing for the next day in your sleeping bag so that when you go to sleep, you are warm from the bottle, and when you wake up in the morning, your clothes for the day are warm as well.
This works fine, unless you have been eating lentil soup for four days straight. Then your clothes are odorous as well.
We left Namche Bazaar as incense burned outside the homes and the sound of chanting and music from the monastery could be heard throughout the valley.
Who said the hard stuff was behind us? Today we descended 1000 feet and then back up 2400 feet, our final destination being the Tengboche Monastery. On the way, we saw a stupa (a monument) for Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, who was the first sherpa to climb Everest and did so with Hillary.
This day was the first day we saw Everest! Seeing Everest for the first time was like seeing the Pyramids in Giza, or Machu Picchu. It is always humbling in a way to witness something greater than yourself.
We reached the Tengboche Monastery right before 3pm, so we had some peppermint tea, walked over to the monastery, removed our boots and took our place against the wall sitting Indian-style to witness a puja ceremony. The ceremony is done in the morning and late afternoon, and consists of monks chanting, monks drinking tea, and monks drumming. It is very long, and you cannot photograph the ceremony without special permission.
After this, we turned in at our teahouse – a really nice one considering everywhere else we have been so far – called Amadablam Lodge. Amadablam means mother (ama) and daughter (dablam) and is the name of a very popular mountain to climb and whose shadow the lodge is beneath.
When you go on these treks, you pretty much are at the mercy of whatever food sanitation exists. In most cases, it is pretty non-existent, and you just have to hope that your camp cook has at least washed his hands in the last four days.
So when we found out that we would be eating at our teahouse every night, we were like, awesome! Good, clean and sanitary kitchens!
Well, not so much. At dinner tonight, a girl walked into the room, proceeded to dig into her nose with her finger, fetch a sugar bowl and some spoons in a glass cup out of a cupboard, clean out the glass cup with her fingers, and offer it to Wally. As Wally reached for it, I was like, “Dude, you don’t want to do that”, and I quickly explained why since his back was to the whole thing.
I prayed that she wouldn’t bring out our dinner.
Quotes of the day:
Bette: At least you know you’re eating organic out here.
Wally: That stick on the ground is more sanitary than that spoon!
This works fine, unless you have been eating lentil soup for four days straight. Then your clothes are odorous as well.
We left Namche Bazaar as incense burned outside the homes and the sound of chanting and music from the monastery could be heard throughout the valley.
Who said the hard stuff was behind us? Today we descended 1000 feet and then back up 2400 feet, our final destination being the Tengboche Monastery. On the way, we saw a stupa (a monument) for Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, who was the first sherpa to climb Everest and did so with Hillary.
This day was the first day we saw Everest! Seeing Everest for the first time was like seeing the Pyramids in Giza, or Machu Picchu. It is always humbling in a way to witness something greater than yourself.
We reached the Tengboche Monastery right before 3pm, so we had some peppermint tea, walked over to the monastery, removed our boots and took our place against the wall sitting Indian-style to witness a puja ceremony. The ceremony is done in the morning and late afternoon, and consists of monks chanting, monks drinking tea, and monks drumming. It is very long, and you cannot photograph the ceremony without special permission.
After this, we turned in at our teahouse – a really nice one considering everywhere else we have been so far – called Amadablam Lodge. Amadablam means mother (ama) and daughter (dablam) and is the name of a very popular mountain to climb and whose shadow the lodge is beneath.
When you go on these treks, you pretty much are at the mercy of whatever food sanitation exists. In most cases, it is pretty non-existent, and you just have to hope that your camp cook has at least washed his hands in the last four days.
So when we found out that we would be eating at our teahouse every night, we were like, awesome! Good, clean and sanitary kitchens!
Well, not so much. At dinner tonight, a girl walked into the room, proceeded to dig into her nose with her finger, fetch a sugar bowl and some spoons in a glass cup out of a cupboard, clean out the glass cup with her fingers, and offer it to Wally. As Wally reached for it, I was like, “Dude, you don’t want to do that”, and I quickly explained why since his back was to the whole thing.
I prayed that she wouldn’t bring out our dinner.
Quotes of the day:
Bette: At least you know you’re eating organic out here.
Wally: That stick on the ground is more sanitary than that spoon!
: cold shower not available :
That is what the sign in the dining room of our teahouse states. I for one am very disappointed because that is exactly what I want. I guess I will just have to settle for a warm shower.
Today is a rest day, which is good, because we are somewhat wiped out from yesterday. We will only make a short hike to see a museum about the park.
Later…
So, the shower has turned out to be quite an adventure. Yes, the water was warm, but it was located in a dungeon. I may or may not be kidding. It was pretty scary, but we are clean. Good thing, because this will be the last shower we have for the next ten days. Thank goodness for baby wipes.
The sign has come down in the restaurant regarding the showers. I had taken a couple of pictures of it, and thought, well, maybe I offended them in some way by photographing their sign.
Wally thinks that they asked someone how to write “hot shower not available” and some smartass gave them the wrong information.
Today is a rest day, which is good, because we are somewhat wiped out from yesterday. We will only make a short hike to see a museum about the park.
Later…
So, the shower has turned out to be quite an adventure. Yes, the water was warm, but it was located in a dungeon. I may or may not be kidding. It was pretty scary, but we are clean. Good thing, because this will be the last shower we have for the next ten days. Thank goodness for baby wipes.
The sign has come down in the restaurant regarding the showers. I had taken a couple of pictures of it, and thought, well, maybe I offended them in some way by photographing their sign.
Wally thinks that they asked someone how to write “hot shower not available” and some smartass gave them the wrong information.
Friday, May 14, 2010
: bistari bistari (slowly slowly) :
Today was our hard slog from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (elevation 11,300 feet), gaining 2,400 feet in altitude. After lunch I decided to don my iPod (best song of the day – How to Disappear Completely – Radiohead) and pretend I was on a stairclimber – only to equate this to working out at home, I would have to put 15 pounds on my back and a plastic bag over my head. Wally on the other hand, was trekking along at a respectable pace ahead of me, but was feeling the affects of the altitude as well.
Hmmm, what happened today? Well, I almost got clunked in the head from an impromptu rockslide. Then Wally and I discussed aggressively about how to react if another one occurred. Then we saw a girl hiking in a push-up bra and a neon yellow dress. Then we saw some hippie hikers hiking in hemp shoes.
Then we followed behind about twelve or so donkeys carrying two-three propane tanks on their backs, uphill on a very unstable rocky pathway. While this provided us frequent rest stops, all we could imagine is one of those tanks falling off and exploding on us. Another aspect of following donkeys is that their waste is quite, um, liquid and plentiful, so you really need to watch every step you make.
It was a very dangerous day.
But very memorable as well. There is a peaceful happiness hearing the chiming bells of the pack animals and seeing prayer flags blowing softly in the wind.
We arrived in Namche after hiking for 5 ½ hours. This is a town that has its own helicopter pad for airlifting trekkers who have developed severe AMS (acute mountain sickness). Since we have arrived, there have been five helicopters. It is a town amenity that we would surely not want to utilize.
In the Himalayas, when you trek from town to town, you can stay very comfortably at a tea house. The accommodations are very rudimentary, but protected from the wind. There is a bed with a mattress and usually they will give you a blanket for extra warmth. You bring a sleeping bag. Then there are the squat toilets, sometimes en suite, but more likely shared and outdoors. Becoming reacquainted with squat toilets has been loads of fun, but I am thankful that I did loads of squats when training for this trek.
The views from our tea house accommodations are spectacular! A view like this in say, Colorado, would cost $500 a night, but here it’s more like 300 rupees, or $2. So maybe the squat toilets are worth it.
After we settled in, we went to the dining area and met a guy from North Carolina named Ari, who was on sabbatical from work and halfway through a grand tour that had started in January of this year, visiting China, Australia and New Zealand, and after Nepal, heading off to Egypt and Greece. After our travel talk, Wally and I ate dinner and watched wrestling on satellite TV with Ari, his guide, and Mingma. All I could think was, damn, back home Judge Judy would be on right now.
Tonight we will go to bed early and try to sleep late. Tomorrow is a rest day in Namche.
Quotes of the day:
Wally: Smells like donkey spirit.
Bette: Think I’ll treat myself to some new underwear today.
However for the record, neither of these statements were made in any relation to one another.
Hmmm, what happened today? Well, I almost got clunked in the head from an impromptu rockslide. Then Wally and I discussed aggressively about how to react if another one occurred. Then we saw a girl hiking in a push-up bra and a neon yellow dress. Then we saw some hippie hikers hiking in hemp shoes.
Then we followed behind about twelve or so donkeys carrying two-three propane tanks on their backs, uphill on a very unstable rocky pathway. While this provided us frequent rest stops, all we could imagine is one of those tanks falling off and exploding on us. Another aspect of following donkeys is that their waste is quite, um, liquid and plentiful, so you really need to watch every step you make.
It was a very dangerous day.
But very memorable as well. There is a peaceful happiness hearing the chiming bells of the pack animals and seeing prayer flags blowing softly in the wind.
We arrived in Namche after hiking for 5 ½ hours. This is a town that has its own helicopter pad for airlifting trekkers who have developed severe AMS (acute mountain sickness). Since we have arrived, there have been five helicopters. It is a town amenity that we would surely not want to utilize.
In the Himalayas, when you trek from town to town, you can stay very comfortably at a tea house. The accommodations are very rudimentary, but protected from the wind. There is a bed with a mattress and usually they will give you a blanket for extra warmth. You bring a sleeping bag. Then there are the squat toilets, sometimes en suite, but more likely shared and outdoors. Becoming reacquainted with squat toilets has been loads of fun, but I am thankful that I did loads of squats when training for this trek.
The views from our tea house accommodations are spectacular! A view like this in say, Colorado, would cost $500 a night, but here it’s more like 300 rupees, or $2. So maybe the squat toilets are worth it.
After we settled in, we went to the dining area and met a guy from North Carolina named Ari, who was on sabbatical from work and halfway through a grand tour that had started in January of this year, visiting China, Australia and New Zealand, and after Nepal, heading off to Egypt and Greece. After our travel talk, Wally and I ate dinner and watched wrestling on satellite TV with Ari, his guide, and Mingma. All I could think was, damn, back home Judge Judy would be on right now.
Tonight we will go to bed early and try to sleep late. Tomorrow is a rest day in Namche.
Quotes of the day:
Wally: Smells like donkey spirit.
Bette: Think I’ll treat myself to some new underwear today.
However for the record, neither of these statements were made in any relation to one another.
Thursday, May 13, 2010
: namaste! :
As I write this, the delirium that is jet-lag is causing surreal hallucinations. Or maybe it is that combined with the altitude.
We finally arrived in Kathmandu via Delhi yesterday and then flew into the mountain village of Lukla this morning. The days leading up to this have been unapologetically chaotic. The ash cloud affecting our flight from Chicago to Delhi. The news that our flight from Delhi to Kathmandu could not be honored since we were late (even though we were told by two different people that it could), and having to purchase a one-way ticket on a different airline. The insanity that is the Delhi airport. Considering ourselves seasoned travelers, we were totally at wits end with it all. I think we are ready for the Amazing Race. Seriously.
Last night we stayed at the Yak & Yeti Hotel, which is famous for something or other. It is old, musty and charming. The grounds are beautifully manicured and have amenities like clay tennis courts. Sadly, tennis rackets were not on our pack list. You have to love a place that has a happy hour pianist that plays Hotel California over and over again.
This morning we met our guide, Mingma Nuru Sherpa in the lobby and off we drove to the airport once again. I can say that I remained strangely calm, and somewhat excited, about the flight to Lukla. There are fourteen seats on the plane, and while I usually am balling my eyes out, this time I was not nervous at all. I just videotaped some of the flight, took pictures and kept reciting The Lord is my Shepard Prayer. It was awesome, and when we touched down, the plane lurched to a stop before it hit a stone wall at the end of the 165 foot runway. I was grinning ear to ear.
We had an easy hike today to the town of Phakding (about 8700 feet). Along the way, we saw hints of beautiful things to come. Occasionally a snow-cap mountain peaks out between the lower mountains. We drank about twenty cups of mint tea and had our first meal of Dal Baht, which is a lentil soup over rice, and vegetables. It is a great meal to have when you need energy. We need a lot of energy right now.
Will try to post up some photos soon - the internet is really slow and our rupees only go so far... xoxo
We finally arrived in Kathmandu via Delhi yesterday and then flew into the mountain village of Lukla this morning. The days leading up to this have been unapologetically chaotic. The ash cloud affecting our flight from Chicago to Delhi. The news that our flight from Delhi to Kathmandu could not be honored since we were late (even though we were told by two different people that it could), and having to purchase a one-way ticket on a different airline. The insanity that is the Delhi airport. Considering ourselves seasoned travelers, we were totally at wits end with it all. I think we are ready for the Amazing Race. Seriously.
Last night we stayed at the Yak & Yeti Hotel, which is famous for something or other. It is old, musty and charming. The grounds are beautifully manicured and have amenities like clay tennis courts. Sadly, tennis rackets were not on our pack list. You have to love a place that has a happy hour pianist that plays Hotel California over and over again.
This morning we met our guide, Mingma Nuru Sherpa in the lobby and off we drove to the airport once again. I can say that I remained strangely calm, and somewhat excited, about the flight to Lukla. There are fourteen seats on the plane, and while I usually am balling my eyes out, this time I was not nervous at all. I just videotaped some of the flight, took pictures and kept reciting The Lord is my Shepard Prayer. It was awesome, and when we touched down, the plane lurched to a stop before it hit a stone wall at the end of the 165 foot runway. I was grinning ear to ear.
We had an easy hike today to the town of Phakding (about 8700 feet). Along the way, we saw hints of beautiful things to come. Occasionally a snow-cap mountain peaks out between the lower mountains. We drank about twenty cups of mint tea and had our first meal of Dal Baht, which is a lentil soup over rice, and vegetables. It is a great meal to have when you need energy. We need a lot of energy right now.
Will try to post up some photos soon - the internet is really slow and our rupees only go so far... xoxo
Thursday, May 6, 2010
: green :
Believe it or not, we are pretty much packed! It seems fairly easy this time, considering we have so much of the gear already - we keep thinking we are missing something, but, nope, we've got everything we need!
One thing that has accompanied me to many places is my lucky green Patagonia underwear. They have been to Peru's Machu Picchu in 2003, the Kili summit in 2006, as well as various other mountain treks and adventures over the years. Yes, I have had them since 2003, but they have held up amazingly well. I almost took them back to Patagonia for recycling last year, but I ... just ... can't muster up the courage to do so!
I know, thanks for sharing, right?
One thing that has accompanied me to many places is my lucky green Patagonia underwear. They have been to Peru's Machu Picchu in 2003, the Kili summit in 2006, as well as various other mountain treks and adventures over the years. Yes, I have had them since 2003, but they have held up amazingly well. I almost took them back to Patagonia for recycling last year, but I ... just ... can't muster up the courage to do so!
I know, thanks for sharing, right?
I also have packed my matching green Patagonia hat, and my altimeter (which I lost one time on a trail in California, but then was recovered by some really nice tourists), and Skittles (I don't know why, but I crave them only while I am in the mountains). These are just a few things that are suspiciously superstitiously routine.
Some new items that will travel with us:
Some new items that will travel with us:
- strawberry-applesauce in a pouch (and peanut butter pouches, but we've brought those before)
- a SteriPEN
- an old photograph I found from 1933 that has a picture of a baby yeti - at least that's what I believe. I will have to enlist the help of expert Sherpas to confirm identification...
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